In my studio garden, nestled between the rosemary and thyme, grows a tall, celery-like plant with feathery leaves that sway gently in the spring breeze, its yellow flower buds still tightly closed, waiting for warmer days. This plant is lovage, the almost-forgotten, old-fashioned herb that once graced every kitchen garden.

I read once in an old herbal book that the name lovage derives from “love-ache,” revealing its ancient connection to matters of the heart. Romans considered it essential in potions meant to attract enduring love, while medieval herbalists prescribed it for emotional healing, believing it could mend the most shattered of hearts.

The distinct aroma of lovage as I added it to my potato salad reminded me that plants carry stories over time—I imagine lovage speaks of Roman courtyards where love potions were crafted under moonlight, and of humble cottages in the Middle Ages where people carried its seeds in small pouches for luck in love.

Our modern world has quietly forgotten lovage in favour of newer herbs, but in my garden, I have let it thrive. In preserving lovage in my garden, I’ve come to wonder how many other ancient wisdoms we’ve lost—not through deliberate disregard, but through the simple act of forgetting to remember.

This refreshing take on potato salad swaps heavy mayonnaise for a bright lovage vinaigrette, making it perfect for Bank Holiday weekend gatherings.

Preparation time: 15 minutes 

Cooking time: 20 minutes 

Chilling time: 30 minutes 

Serves: 6 as a side

Ingredients

For the salad:

• 900g new potatoes or baby potatoes 
• 150g fresh garden peas (or defrosted frozen peas)
• 3 spring onions, finely sliced
• 125g goats cheese
• Small handful of lovage leaves, roughly chopped for garnish

For the lovage vinaigrette:

• 15g lovage leaves
• 10g fresh chives
• 1 small garlic clove
• 30ml white wine vinegar
• 15ml lemon juice
• 5g Dijon mustard
• 60ml extra virgin olive oil
• 1 tsp honey (to balance acidity)
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Method

1. Wash potatoes and cut larger ones in half (leave tiny ones whole). Place in a large saucepan and cover with cold, salted water.
2. Bring to the boil and cook until tender when pierced with a knife, about 15-20 minutes.
3. If using fresh peas, add them to the pan during the final 2 minutes of cooking.
4. Drain potatoes and peas, then rinse briefly with cool water to stop cooking.
5. While potatoes cool, prepare the vinaigrette: Combine lovage, chives, garlic, vinegar, lemon juice, mustard and honey in a food processor or blender. Pulse until herbs are finely chopped.
6. With the machine running, slowly stream in the olive oil until combined. Season with salt and pepper.
7. In a large bowl, combine potatoes, peas and spring onions.
8. Pour the vinaigrette over and gently toss everything together, being careful not to break up the potatoes.
9. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before serving to allow flavours to meld.
10. Crumble goat’s cheese on top and add some chopped lovage leaves for garnish just before serving.

Notes

Can’t find lovage?

Substitute with:

• Flat-leaf parsley + 1 teaspoon celery salt (reduce other salt accordingly)

Make ahead

This salad tastes even better after a few hours in the refrigerator. It will keep well for up to 2 days.

Variations

• Add soft-boiled eggs for extra protein
• Include thinly sliced asparagus for additional spring flavour