I’ve been rehoming ex-commercial hens for quite a few years now, but at the weekend I volunteered for the first time with a larger rescue charity. Our team worked together to rehome 160 so-called “free-range” hens from a commercial farm. As we gently placed these creatures—many with patchy feathers, pale faces and tired eyes—into their transport boxes, the disconnect between packaging imagery and reality became even more painfully clear.

These hens, technically “free-range” by industry standards, had supposedly had “access” to the outdoors, but many showed signs they’d rarely felt sunshine. The labels we trust as consumers often tell only partial truths.

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As I have watched the hens I rehomed from the rescue this week explore genuine outdoor space for the first time, their happiness has been truly heartwarming. Some tentatively pecked at grass, while others stretched their wings in the sunshine—simple freedoms denied to them for so long. That moment of transformation remind me why this volunteer work matters, beyond just the birds I’ve rehomed over the years. Each hen represents a small victory against a system that often values efficiency over welfare.

We often disconnect from the sources of our food—whether eggs from hens or milk from cows—because acknowledging the reality can be uncomfortable. Yet finding small ways to make more conscious choices, whether through supporting local farmers, volunteering, or simply reading beyond the marketing claims, helps to make a real difference.

Whilst caring for my rescue girls this week, I have found solace in my kitchen, transforming ingredients from one of our local farm shops into something sweet and delicious. I have made a berry meringue mess with homemade thyme-infused cream using these locally sourced ingredients. In the kitchen, as in life, small choices about where our food comes from remind us of our responsibility to the world around us. This berry meringue mess, in its own sweet way, celebrates the beginning of a new chapter for those hens finally discovering what freedom truly means.

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An elegant yet effortless dessert showcasing farm shop meringues, fresh berries, and aromatic thyme

Ingredients

For the herb-infused cream:

• 480ml double cream
• 60ml honey 
• 4-5 fresh thyme sprigs
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

For the berry mixture:

• 600g mixed fresh strawberries (I used a mix of red and white) & blackberries
• 2 tablespoons honey 
• 1 tablespoon lemon juice
• 1 teaspoon finely chopped thyme

For assembly:

• 150g meringue pieces
• 15g pistachios, crushed 
• Fresh chopped thyme for garnish

Instructions

1. Infuse the cream:
   • In a medium saucepan, combine 240ml double cream with thyme and honey.
   • Heat until just below simmering point, then remove from heat.
   • Let steep for 30 minutes, then strain and refrigerate until completely chilled (at least 2 hours).
2. Prepare the berries:
   • Hull and quarter strawberries if large. Leave blackberries whole.
   • In a bowl, gently toss berries with honey, lemon juice, and finely chopped thyme.
   • Let sit at room temperature for 15-20 minutes to macerate.
   • Reserve a few perfect berries for garnish.
3. Whip the cream:
   • Combine the infused cream with the remaining 240ml cold double cream and vanilla.
   • Whip to soft peaks, being careful not to overwhip.
4. Assembly options:Family-style presentation:
   • In a large, shallow serving dish, arrange broken meringue pieces.
   • Spoon over most of the macerated berries, including their juices.
   • Top with generous dollops of the herb-infused cream.
   • Finish with remaining berries, a sprinkle of pistachio nuts, and chopped thyme.
5. Individual servings:
   • Layer meringue pieces, berries, and cream in clear glasses or small bowls.
6. Serve immediately to maintain the meringue’s texture.

Flavour Notes:

• Thyme pairs beautifully with strawberries and blackberries for an unexpected aromatic twist.

Make-Ahead Tips

For entertaining, prepare the herb-infused cream and macerated berries up to 4 hours ahead, storing in the refrigerator. Assemble just before serving to keep the meringues crisp..